From Nibbled Leaves to New Beginnings: Propagating Your Aglaonema After a Cat Encounter

The Agony and the Aglaonema: Rescuing Your Chewed-Up Chinese Evergreen

We’ve all been there. You turn your back for a moment, and disaster strikes. For houseplant lovers, this often involves a curious cat, a tempting leaf, and a whole lot of heartbreak. This scenario is especially painful when a cherished plant, like a blooming Aglaonema (Chinese Evergreen), becomes the target. But don’t despair! Even if your feline friend has gotten the better of your plant, there’s a good chance you can salvage it and even propagate new plants.

Understanding the Aglaonema and its Appeal

The Aglaonema, with its striking foliage and relatively easy care, has become a favorite among indoor gardeners. Its leaves come in a stunning array of patterns and colors, from deep greens to vibrant reds and pinks. And just as appealing to us, their texture and subtle movements can be irresistible to cats. Unfortunately, while the Aglaonema is not considered highly toxic, it does contain calcium oxalate crystals that can cause oral irritation, excessive drooling, and vomiting if ingested. So, keeping your cat away from your Aglaonema is a priority.

Assessing the Damage: Is Propagation Necessary?

Before you dive into propagation, take a good look at your plant. How extensive is the damage? A few nibbled leaves might be unsightly, but the plant can likely recover with some TLC. However, if a significant portion of the plant is damaged, or if the main stem is affected, propagation becomes a viable and often necessary option to save what’s left and multiply your plant.

Propagation Methods for Aglaonema

Aglaonemas are relatively easy to propagate, offering several options for the aspiring plant parent. Here’s a breakdown of the most common methods:

1. Stem Cuttings

This is arguably the most popular and straightforward method. It involves taking cuttings from the stem of your plant and encouraging them to root.

• What you’ll need:

  • Clean, sharp knife or pruning shears
  • Water or rooting medium (perlite, sphagnum moss, or a well-draining potting mix)
  • Small containers or propagation station
  • Optional: rooting hormone (though not always necessary)

• Instructions:

  1. Select your cuttings: Choose healthy stems with at least 2-3 leaves. Cut the stem just below a node (the point where a leaf or stem emerges). If your plant has been severely damaged, you might be working with just single leaves with a small piece of stem attached; these can also often be rooted.
  2. Prepare the cuttings: Remove the bottom leaves from the cutting, leaving only a few at the top. This prevents rot and encourages root development. If the remaining leaves are large, you can trim them to reduce water loss.
  3. Rooting in water: Place the cuttings in a glass or jar of clean water, ensuring that the nodes are submerged but the leaves are above the water line. Change the water every few days to keep it fresh and prevent algae growth. Place the jar in a location with bright, indirect light.
  4. Rooting in a medium: Alternatively, you can plant your cuttings directly into a rooting medium. Dip the cut end of the stem in rooting hormone (optional) and insert it into a small pot filled with your chosen medium. Water the medium lightly and keep it consistently moist, but not soggy. Place the pot in a location with bright, indirect light.
  5. Patience is key: Roots should begin to appear in a few weeks, whether you’re rooting in water or a medium. Once the roots are about an inch long (for water propagation) or well-established in the medium, you can transplant your cuttings into a pot with regular potting mix.

2. Division

This method is best suited for mature Aglaonemas that have multiple stems or clumps. It involves separating the plant into multiple smaller plants.

• What you’ll need:

  • Garden trowel or small spade
  • Potting mix
  • Pots

• Instructions:

  1. Remove the plant: Carefully remove the entire plant from its pot.
  2. Loosen the soil: Gently loosen the soil around the roots.
  3. Divide the plant: Identify the natural divisions in the plant. You can use your hands or a clean knife to separate the clumps, ensuring that each division has a good amount of roots and foliage.
  4. Pot the divisions: Plant each division in its own pot with fresh potting mix. Water thoroughly.

3. Air Layering

This is a more advanced technique, but it can be useful for propagating larger Aglaonemas with long, bare stems.

• What you’ll need:

  • Sharp knife or pruning shears
  • Sphagnum moss
  • Plastic wrap or a clear plastic bag
  • Twine or tape
  • Rooting hormone (optional)

• Instructions:

  1. Wound the stem: Select a section of the stem where you want to encourage root growth. Make a shallow cut or two around the stem, about an inch long. You can also scrape away a small ring of the outer layer of the stem (the cambium layer).
  2. Apply rooting hormone: Apply rooting hormone to the wounded area (optional).
  3. Wrap the wound: Moisten a handful of sphagnum moss and wrap it around the wounded area of the stem. Secure the moss with plastic wrap or a clear plastic bag, tightly sealing both ends with twine or tape. This creates a humid environment for root development.
  4. Monitor and water: Keep the moss consistently moist by occasionally injecting water into the plastic wrap with a syringe or dropper. You should start to see roots develop in a few weeks to a couple of months. Once the roots are well-established (you can see them through the plastic), you can cut the stem below the rooted section and pot it up.

Post-Propagation Care for Your Aglaonema

Once your new Aglaonemas have rooted and been potted, they still need careful attention to thrive.

• Light: Provide bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight, which can scorch the leaves.
• Watering: Water when the top inch of soil is dry. Aglaonemas prefer to dry out slightly between waterings. Overwatering can lead to root rot.
• Humidity: Aglaonemas appreciate humidity. You can increase humidity by misting the leaves regularly, using a humidifier, or placing the pot on a tray of pebbles filled with water.
• Temperature: Keep the plant in a warm environment, ideally between 65-80°F (18-27°C).
• Fertilizing: Fertilize your Aglaonema every 2-4 weeks during the growing season (spring and summer) with a balanced liquid fertilizer, diluted to half strength.

Preventing Future Cat Attacks: Plant Jail and Beyond

So, you’ve saved your Aglaonema, but now what? Preventing future cat-related mishaps is crucial.

• Plant Jail: As you’ve already discovered, a dedicated “plant jail” (a shelf, a hanging basket, or an enclosed table) is the most effective solution. Ensure that your plant jail is inaccessible to your cat.
• Deterrents: Cats often dislike the scent of citrus, so you can place citrus peels near your plant. You can also try using cat repellent sprays, but test them on a small area of the plant first to ensure they don’t damage the leaves.
• Alternative Plants: Consider providing your cat with its own “cat-safe” plants, such as cat grass or catnip, to divert their attention from your Aglaonema. Make sure that the other plants are safe for the cat. It is always a good idea to check if a specific plant is toxic or not to your pet.
• Training: You can try training your cat to stay away from your plants using positive reinforcement, such as treats or praise, when they leave the plant alone. Avoid scolding or punishing your cat, as this can create anxiety and make the problem worse.

Conclusion: A Second Chance for Your Aglaonema

Having your Aglaonema chewed by a cat can be a disheartening experience, but it doesn’t have to be the end of the road. With a little knowledge and effort, you can not only rescue your plant but also create new ones, multiplying the beauty in your home. Remember to assess the damage, choose the appropriate propagation method, and provide the right care. And most importantly, invest in effective cat-proofing measures to ensure your Aglaonema (and your sanity) remain intact. Happy propagating!