From One Home to Another: A Guide to Moving and Bushing Up Your Philodendron

The Great Philodendron Relocation: A Guide for Long-Vined Beauties

Moving can be a stressful experience, and that stress is often amplified when you’re responsible for the well-being of a beloved houseplant, especially one with impressive proportions. If you’re facing the challenge of transporting a sprawling philodendron, with vines that might rival the length of a small room, you’re in the right place. This guide is designed to help you safely relocate your long-vined friend while minimizing stress for both you and your plant.

Preparation is Key: Before the Big Move

Before you even think about lifting a single vine, proper preparation is crucial. This involves assessing the plant, gathering the right tools, and planning the logistics.

• Assessment: Take a good look at your philodendron. Note the length of the vines, the overall health of the plant, and the size and weight of the pot. Identify any weak or fragile areas that might be prone to breakage during the move. Take pictures for reference.
• Gather Your Supplies: You’ll need a few essential items:
  • Soft Ties or Twine: Avoid using anything that could damage the vines. Soft ties or twine are best for gently bundling the plant.
  • Scissors or Pruning Shears: For trimming any damaged or overly long vines (more on this later).
  • Packing Blankets or Bubble Wrap: To protect the foliage and stems during transport.
  • A Sturdy Box or Container: Consider the size and shape of your philodendron. You might need a large, custom-sized box or a reinforced container.
  • Duct Tape or Packing Tape: For securing the box or container.
  • Gloves: To protect your hands from any potential sap or thorns.
  • Watering Can or Spray Bottle: For a pre-move watering and misting.
• Pre-Move Pruning (Optional but Recommended): This is an excellent opportunity to shape your philodendron and promote bushier growth (more on this in the Bushier Growth section). Prune any dead, yellowing, or damaged leaves and stems. You can also trim excessively long vines to make the plant more manageable for transport. Remember to sterilize your pruning tools with rubbing alcohol to prevent the spread of disease.
• Watering: Water your philodendron a day or two before the move. This will ensure the plant is well-hydrated, which helps it withstand the stress of transport. Avoid overwatering.

The Art of Bundling: Taming the Vines

The key to safely moving a long-vined philodendron is to bundle the vines carefully. Here’s how:

1. Gentle Handling: Handle the vines with care, avoiding any sharp bends or excessive force.
2. Coiling: Gently coil the vines, starting from the tips and working your way towards the base of the plant. Aim to create a loose, manageable bundle.
3. Securing the Vines: Use soft ties or twine to gently secure the coiled vines. Tie them loosely in several places along the length of the vines to prevent them from unraveling during transport. Avoid tying the ties too tightly, as this can damage the stems.
4. Protecting the Foliage: After the vines are secured, gently tuck the foliage inside the bundle, or wrap the entire plant with packing blankets or bubble wrap to protect the leaves from damage.

Pot Protection: Preparing the Base

The pot itself needs protection too:

• Secure the Soil: If the soil is loose, consider covering the top of the pot with plastic wrap or a breathable fabric to prevent soil spillage during transport.
• Reinforce the Pot: If the pot is fragile, wrap it with bubble wrap or place it inside a sturdy container to provide extra protection.
• Consider the Weight: Philodendrons, especially large ones, can be surprisingly heavy. Ensure you can safely lift and carry the pot before attempting to move it.

Transport Time: Getting Your Philodendron to Its New Home

Now comes the actual move. Here are some tips for a successful transport:

• Weather Considerations: Avoid moving your philodendron in extreme temperatures (below freezing or scorching heat). If the weather is unfavorable, try to move the plant during the cooler parts of the day or use climate-controlled transportation.
• Loading and Unloading: Carefully lift the bundled philodendron and place it in a secure position inside your vehicle. Make sure the pot is stable and won’t tip over during transport. If possible, place the plant upright. If space is limited, lay it down carefully, making sure the vines are supported.
• Secure the Plant: Use seatbelts, straps, or other methods to secure the plant and prevent it from shifting during the journey.
• Gentle Driving: Drive carefully and avoid sudden stops or sharp turns, which could jostle the plant.
• Unpacking and Placement: Upon arrival at your new home, carefully unpack your philodendron. Remove the protective wrapping and ties. Place the plant in a spot with similar light conditions to its previous location. This will help minimize stress.

Post-Move Care: Helping Your Philodendron Recover

Moving can be stressful for plants. Provide some TLC to help your philodendron bounce back:

• Watering: Water the plant thoroughly upon arrival, unless the soil is already moist. Avoid overwatering.
• Misting: Mist the leaves regularly to increase humidity, especially if your new environment is drier.
• Light: Place the plant in a location with bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight, which can scorch the leaves.
• Observation: Monitor your philodendron for any signs of stress, such as yellowing leaves, leaf drop, or wilting. Adjust your care routine as needed.
• Avoid Repotting Immediately: Do not repot the plant immediately after the move. Give it some time to acclimate to its new environment before disturbing the roots.
• Patience: Be patient. It may take some time for your philodendron to fully recover and resume its normal growth.

Secrets to a Bushier Philodendron: A Gardener’s Guide

Beyond the immediate concern of moving, you also expressed interest in making your philodendron more bushy. Here are some tips:

Light is Your Friend

• Bright, Indirect Light: Philodendrons thrive in bright, indirect light. This means a location where the plant receives plenty of light but is shielded from direct sunlight, which can scorch the leaves. A north-facing or east-facing window is often ideal. If you don’t have sufficient natural light, consider using a grow light.

Pruning for Fullness

• Pinching and Pruning: This is the most effective technique for encouraging bushier growth. Pinching involves removing the growing tips of the stems. This forces the plant to produce new growth from the nodes (the points where leaves emerge) lower down on the stem. Pruning is similar, but involves cutting stems back further. Here’s how to do it:
  • Pinching: Use your fingers or small scissors to pinch off the growing tips of the stems. This can be done at any time during the growing season.
  • Pruning: For more significant shaping or to remove leggy growth, use clean pruning shears to cut stems back to a node. Pruning is best done in the spring or summer when the plant is actively growing. Don’t be afraid to prune aggressively if you want a bushier plant. The plant will respond by producing new growth from multiple nodes. For the long-vined varieties, you can prune them in the spring and the cuttings can be propagated to create new plants!
• Strategic Cuts: When pruning, make cuts just above a node. This will encourage new growth to emerge from that point. Angled cuts are often recommended to prevent water from accumulating on the cut surface.

Proper Watering: Avoiding Overwatering

• Watering Schedule: Allow the top inch or two of soil to dry out between waterings. Overwatering is a common cause of problems with philodendrons, leading to root rot. Stick your finger into the soil to check for moisture before watering. The frequency will depend on the light, humidity, and temperature.
• Drainage: Ensure your pot has adequate drainage holes to allow excess water to escape. If the pot doesn’t have drainage holes, water sparingly to avoid waterlogging the soil.

Humidity: Mimicking a Tropical Environment

• Humidity Levels: Philodendrons are tropical plants and prefer higher humidity levels. Low humidity can cause the leaves to become dry and crispy. Here are some ways to increase humidity:
  • Misting: Mist the leaves regularly with water, especially during dry periods. This is a quick and easy way to increase humidity.
  • Humidifier: Use a humidifier to increase the humidity in the room. This is the most effective way to maintain a consistent humidity level.
  • Pebble Tray: Place the plant on a tray filled with pebbles and water. As the water evaporates, it will increase the humidity around the plant. Make sure the bottom of the pot is not sitting in the water.
  • Grouping Plants: Grouping your philodendron with other plants can also help to increase humidity.

Fertilization: Feeding Your Plant

• Fertilizing: Feed your philodendron during the growing season (spring and summer) with a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength. Follow the instructions on the fertilizer packaging. Avoid fertilizing during the dormant season (fall and winter).

Support: Guiding Growth

• Support Structures: As your philodendron grows, you may need to provide support to help it grow upright. This is especially true for climbing varieties. Here are some options:
  • Moss Pole: A moss pole is a popular choice for philodendrons. It provides a surface for the plant to attach its aerial roots to, allowing it to climb.
  • Trellis: A trellis can be used to support the vines and guide the plant’s growth.
  • Stake: A simple stake can be used to support a single stem.

Propagation: Expanding Your Collection

• Propagation: Philodendrons are easy to propagate from stem cuttings. This is a great way to create new plants and make your philodendron even bushier. Here’s how:
  • Take a Cutting: Cut a stem just below a node. The cutting should have at least one leaf and a node.
  • Rooting in Water: Place the cutting in a glass or jar of water, ensuring that the node is submerged. Place the glass in a location with bright, indirect light. Change the water every few days. Roots should begin to form within a few weeks.
  • Rooting in Soil: You can also root cuttings directly in soil. Plant the cutting in a well-draining potting mix. Keep the soil moist and provide bright, indirect light.
  • Planting: Once the roots are well-developed (several inches long), plant the cutting in a pot with well-draining potting mix.

Soil Matters

• Potting Mix: Philodendrons thrive in a well-draining potting mix. A mix that retains some moisture but also allows for good aeration is ideal. A combination of peat moss, perlite, and orchid bark can work well.

Addressing Common Problems

• Yellowing Leaves: Yellowing leaves can indicate several problems, including overwatering, underwatering, insufficient light, or nutrient deficiencies. Assess the plant’s care routine and adjust as needed.
• Brown Leaf Tips: Brown leaf tips can be a sign of low humidity, underwatering, or salt buildup in the soil. Increase humidity, water more consistently, and flush the soil periodically.
• Pests: Philodendrons can be susceptible to pests, such as spider mites, mealybugs, and aphids. Inspect your plant regularly and treat any infestations promptly.

By following these tips, you can successfully move your long-vined philodendron and encourage it to become a lush, bushy houseplant. Remember that patience and observation are key to successful plant care. Happy gardening!