From One Spot to Another: A Guide to Moving Semi-Established Shrubs

Moving Semi-Established Shrubs: A Gardener’s Dilemma

Every gardener knows the feeling: the initial excitement of planting, followed by the inevitable second-guessing. “Did I put that there?” “Will it get enough sun?” “Am I happy with the overall arrangement?” These questions often linger in the back of our minds. The good news is, most of the time, it’s possible to make changes and correct initial decisions.

Today, we’ll delve into the process of moving semi-established shrubs, specifically addressing a common scenario: repositioning plants in a garden bed to achieve a more aesthetically pleasing and balanced design.

The Gardener’s Quandary: A Real-Life Example

Let’s consider a typical situation. A gardener in Clackamas County, Oregon, embarked on a native plant garden project with a custom-built bed from her husband. The gardener planted a deciduous Red Flowering Currant (Ribes sanguineum) on one end of the bed, and an Evergreen Huckleberry (Vaccinium ovatum) on the other.

The problem? In the winter, the bed appeared somewhat unbalanced. The deciduous Red Flowering Currant loses its leaves, while the Evergreen Huckleberry maintains its foliage. This visual disparity prompted the gardener to consider a solution: moving the Red Flowering Currant to the center of the bed for better visual harmony and adding another Evergreen Huckleberry to balance it out.

But the dilemma is real: “Is it horrible to dig up the Red Flowering Currant?” she wonders. It had been planted for two years and, although it didn’t flower the previous summer, the gardener anticipated blooms this year.

Her husband’s advice to let things be, to have patience, and not to worry, is sound, but the gardener’s aesthetic sensibility is strong and valid. Let’s explore the considerations for moving semi-established shrubs.

Assessing the Situation: Is Relocation Necessary?

Before breaking ground, it’s essential to evaluate the situation carefully. Consider the following:

• Aesthetic concerns: Is the imbalance truly bothersome? Will the situation improve as the plants mature and fill out? In the case of the example, the visual disparity during winter months is a valid reason for concern. Consider that the deciduous shrub will regain its visual presence in the spring and summer, and the bed’s appearance will change seasonally.
• Plant health: Is the plant thriving where it is? Are there any signs of stress, such as stunted growth, discolored leaves, or pest infestations? Moving a stressed plant can exacerbate its problems, especially if the plant is not properly cared for after relocation.
• Plant characteristics: Different shrubs have different tolerances for transplanting. Some, like the Red Flowering Currant, are relatively adaptable. Others might be more sensitive.
• The ‘Why’: Why do you want to move the plant? Is it simply a matter of aesthetics, or is there a functional reason, such as improving sunlight exposure or providing more space for growth? It’s also possible that a plant is in the wrong place. It is too close to a walkway or it is blocking the view.

In the example, the desire to achieve better visual balance is a primary driver. The gardener’s expectation that the shrub should flower is another factor, especially if a lack of blooms is observed after the first year.

Timing is Everything: When to Relocate

The ideal time to move a shrub depends on its type, the climate, and the gardener’s specific circumstances. However, as a general rule, the best time to relocate shrubs is during their dormant season. This typically means late fall, winter, or early spring. The colder temperatures minimize stress and allow the plant to focus its energy on root development rather than leaf growth.

• Deciduous shrubs: These shrubs are best moved when they are dormant and leafless. This minimizes water loss and makes the process easier.
• Evergreen shrubs: These can also be moved during dormancy, but you must be mindful of protecting the foliage from harsh winter weather. Early spring is often a good option.
• Avoid moving shrubs during active growth: Moving a shrub during the growing season (spring or summer) can shock it, leading to leaf drop, stunted growth, or even death. If relocation is absolutely necessary during this time, it will be essential to provide extra care, such as regular watering and protection from sun and wind.

In the Clackamas County example, a late fall or early spring relocation would be ideal for both the Red Flowering Currant and the Evergreen Huckleberry.

Preparing for the Move: Essential Steps

Proper preparation is crucial for a successful shrub relocation:

• Assess the new location: Ensure the new location has suitable soil conditions, sunlight exposure, and space for the shrub to grow to its mature size. Consider the plant’s mature height and width to avoid overcrowding later on.
• Water the shrub: Several days before moving, water the shrub thoroughly. This will help to hydrate the roots and make the soil easier to work with. Ensure that the soil is not waterlogged.
• Prune the shrub (optional): Lightly pruning the shrub before moving can help reduce water loss and encourage new growth. This is especially helpful for larger or more established plants. Remove any dead, diseased, or crossing branches.
• Gather your tools: You’ll need a shovel, a wheelbarrow or tarp for transporting the plant, gardening gloves, and possibly a tarp to protect the plant from the sun. Have the new planting hole prepared before you begin digging.

The Moving Process: A Step-by-Step Guide

1. Digging the shrub:
   • Start by digging a trench around the shrub, approximately 12-18 inches from the trunk (the exact distance depends on the size of the shrub). The goal is to preserve as much of the root ball as possible.
   • Dig deep enough to reach the base of the root ball, usually 12-24 inches deep, depending on the shrub’s size and age.
   • Carefully loosen the soil around the root ball with your shovel, gently working your way underneath to separate the roots from the surrounding soil.
2. Lifting the shrub:
   • Once the root ball is loose, carefully lift the shrub out of the ground. This may require assistance, especially for larger shrubs. Try to keep the root ball intact.
   • If the root ball is large and unwieldy, you can wrap it with burlap or a tarp to help hold it together during transport. This is a way to protect it and keep the roots from drying out.
3. Transporting the shrub:
   • Transport the shrub to its new location as quickly as possible. Protect the root ball from sun and wind during transport.
   • Use a wheelbarrow or tarp to move the shrub to its new home, or carry it if the shrub is smaller.
4. Planting in the new location:
   • Dig a hole in the new location that is twice as wide as the root ball and just as deep. The hole should be wide enough to allow the roots to spread out easily.
   • Gently place the shrub in the hole, ensuring that the top of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil surface.
   • Backfill the hole with the original soil, or amend the soil with compost or other organic matter. Gently tamp the soil around the root ball to eliminate air pockets.
5. Watering and aftercare:
   • Water the shrub thoroughly after planting, and continue to water regularly, especially during dry periods. Water deeply, but avoid overwatering.
   • Mulch around the base of the shrub to help retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.
   • Monitor the shrub for signs of stress, such as wilting leaves or stunted growth. Adjust your care accordingly.

Addressing the Concerns: Will the Shrub Survive?

The biggest concern when moving a semi-established shrub is whether it will survive the process. While there are no guarantees, following the steps above will significantly increase the chances of success. Here’s a breakdown of potential issues and how to mitigate them:

• Root shock: This is the most common problem. Disrupting the roots during transplanting can stress the plant, leading to wilting, leaf drop, or even death. Minimize root shock by:
  • Moving the shrub during its dormant season.
  • Preserving as much of the root ball as possible.
  • Watering the shrub thoroughly after planting.
  • Providing shade and protection from wind if necessary.
• Water stress: The shrub may struggle to absorb enough water from the soil, especially if its roots have been damaged. Prevent water stress by:
  • Watering regularly, especially during dry periods.
  • Mulching to retain moisture.
  • Avoiding overwatering, which can lead to root rot.
• Sunburn: If the shrub is moved from a shady location to a sunnier one, its leaves may be susceptible to sunburn. Protect the plant by:
  • Planting it in a location that provides some shade, especially during the hottest part of the day.
  • Providing shade with a temporary structure, such as a shade cloth.

The Case of the Red Flowering Currant and Evergreen Huckleberry

In the specific example, the Red Flowering Currant is generally considered a relatively adaptable shrub. Therefore, the chances of a successful relocation are good, provided the steps outlined above are followed.

The Evergreen Huckleberry is also relatively adaptable. The most important thing is to be mindful of its needs and ensure it’s planted in the correct soil and location with adequate moisture. This includes proper care after moving.

The Gardener’s Intuition: Trusting Your Vision

Ultimately, the decision to move a shrub is a personal one. While her husband’s advice is practical, the gardener’s aesthetic sensibility and the desire for a balanced garden are valid. If the current arrangement doesn’t bring you joy, and if you’re willing to put in the effort, relocating the plants can be a worthwhile endeavor.

Remember to assess the situation carefully, prepare thoroughly, and follow the proper planting techniques. With a little planning and care, you can create a garden that is both beautiful and satisfying.

Moving semi-established shrubs can be a rewarding experience, allowing you to refine your garden design and create a space you truly love. Don’t be afraid to experiment, learn from your experiences, and trust your gardening instincts.